Walk to the Winery

 

One of the most touching aspects of this journey is the number of people we know, or whom we’ve never met, who wish to help us or connect us. 

Franky Matarazzo is the sales manager at a Lagarde Bodega, and old winery in the Chacras de Coria section of the Mendoza district. Franky is the friend of our friend Agustin. We’ve only spoken with him on the phone once and have exchanged texts several times on WhatsApp, the communication format preferred in this part of the world. 

Based on the recommendations of two good friends we booked a lunch at Lagarde. It was an hour walk from our hotel.  Both the walk, and the lunch itself, were respectively amazing adventures.

This section of Mendoza Wine district reminds us of what might happen in the Napa Valley of California if, in 100 years, subdivisions overrun the vineyards. It’s an interesting mix of old and new. There are sycamore and Mediterranean poplar trees standing four stories tall and with trunks six feet thick lining every street. 

Old, adobe or ancient baked brick buildings stand at every major intersection while the spaces between are filled with residences of various ages.

While Mendoza is effectively a desert, it is extremely well watered from the Andes. Major canals roar through town and every street, seemingly every ditch, is actually an old agricultural viaduct and are still running water to vineyards long gone. The ancient trees tap into them and stay strong and well watered.

Three years ago while researching a wine district to visit as an add-on to a fishing trip, an expat Gringo friend told us to stay away from Mendoza because it was “razor wire and iron bars“ versus the old, relaxed country bodega scene we would appreciate.  It’s all here, from poor barrios clinging to the edge of canals to wealthy estates and private, gated neighborhoods.  

One new gated neighborhood development we passed, advertising ‘homes from 500,000 pesos’ reminded us of a Supermax penitentiary. The guard buildings looked like block houses. The entry gates were thick iron bars and the entire development was surrounded by two fences: chain-link and razor wire on the outside with six strands of 220 V electric fence running the inside perimeter. Don't let your kids play fetch with the dog, one of them might get fried in the electric fence.  This pathetic, ugly monument to fear was empty and filling with weeds.  

Back to the joy of walking the streets of this old historic District. After crossing an old town center and some derelict railroad tracks we came to Lagarde Bodega.  

Legarde has been producing wine for 125 years. The property is immaculate and festooned with old artifacts of the craft of winemaking. A very pleasant guard confirmed our reservation and we watched his eyes light up when he was informed we were the special guest of Franky. We were escorted to our table and absolutely swarmed with delightful service staff who spoke impeccable English   

We were treated to a multicourse ingredient-based meal and wine pairing that reflected perfectly the classic Argentine culinary experience. We opened with empanadas.  Shown is a beef course of grass-fed beef fillet from the famous Pampas with chimichurri sauce, garnished with garden vegetables and Malbec wine-infused sea salt. 

All the while we sat in the shade of a mulberry tree with grape leaves fluttering at our elbows. A perfect experience. 

The walk back took a little longer than the walk in. We were weighed-down by several bottles of wine and olive oil we purchased from the bodega store. We were also caring a couple of bottles of wine in our bellies.

The streets were deserted as the country was on it’s customary afternoon siesta. The stores were shuttered.  

The only residents out were the ubiquitous street dogs.  We enjoyed the peaceful walk back to the hotel.